How to spot a stolen or blacklisted iPhone before you buy

The 5-step verification checklist

1. Get the IMEI. Dial *#06# on the phone, or check Settings > General > About. Cross-check it against the IMEI printed on the SIM tray and the original box.
2. Blacklist check. Submit the IMEI to your network's check service or send it to a dealer. A blocked phone shows up immediately.
3. iCloud / Find My status. Go to Settings > [Name] — if you see anyone's Apple ID at the top, the seller must sign out in front of you. No exceptions.
4. Factory reset on the spot. Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPhone > Erase All Content and Settings. If activation lock triggers, walk away.
5. Make a test call. Insert your own SIM and dial a number. Blacklisted phones get "call failed" or no service.

Red flags that should end the conversation

• Seller "doesn't know the password" or "bought it from someone else".
• No box, no charger, and a vague backstory.
• Price is more than 25% below the going market rate.
• Refuses to meet at a mall, mall parking, or store.
• Pressure to pay cash immediately, in full, before testing.
• Multiple identical phones for sale — usually a sign of organised reselling of stolen stock.

What to do if you've already bought one

If a phone you bought blacklists after the fact, report it to SAPS with the IMEI and the seller's details. You will not get the phone unblocked, but the case number is what insurance and the network will ask for. We've helped customers recover trade-in value on otherwise-bricked phones — the board and screen still have parts value.

FAQ

Can I trust online IMEI checker sites?

Free sites often return outdated data. SA networks and licensed dealers have direct access to the live blacklist — that's the only check that counts.

What about CPU swaps?

Sophisticated fraud rings sometimes transplant boards between cases. A serial number mismatch between Settings > About and the SIM tray is the giveaway.